Access our premium database of error codes, common faults, and professional repair solutions for Riber appliances.
Dishwasher alarm sounds and cycle stops.
Alternate code for water leak detected in the base, activating the AquaStop float switch.
Disconnect power, find the source of the leak, and dry out the base pan to reset the switch.
Door cannot be locked, cycle won't start.
The door lock mechanism is faulty or the wiring to the lock is damaged.
Check door for obstructions. Inspect the door lock assembly and its wiring. Replace the lock if necessary.
Hob shuts down during use and shows E1.
The internal electronics have overheated.
Ensure the cooling vents underneath the hob are not blocked. Allow the hob to cool down completely. If the error persists, the internal cooling fan may be faulty.
Washing machine is not filling with water.
Water inlet valve is faulty, water supply is turned off, or the inlet hose is kinked or blocked.
Ensure water tap is open. Check inlet hose for kinks. Clean the filter screen in the inlet valve. Test and replace the inlet valve if it's defective.
A specific cooking zone shuts off and displays E2.
The temperature sensor for the ceramic glass above the cooking zone has detected excessive heat.
Remove the pan from the zone and let it cool. Check if the pan has a flat, clean base. Using oversized pans can also cause this error.
Water is not draining from the drum.
The drain pump filter is clogged, the drain hose is blocked or kinked, or the drain pump has failed.
Clean the drain pump filter. Check the drain hose for blockages. Inspect the drain pump impeller and test the pump motor.
Hob does not work and displays E3 upon power-up.
The incoming mains voltage is too high or too low for the appliance.
Have a qualified electrician check the voltage of the electrical supply to the hob. This is not an appliance fault.
Machine has overfilled with water or is leaking.
Pressure switch (water level sensor) is faulty, or the water inlet valve is stuck open.
Check pressure switch tubing for blockages. Test the pressure switch and replace if faulty. If the machine fills while off, replace the water inlet valve.
Hob beeps and shows E4, zones may not heat correctly.
Communication error between the touch control interface and the main power module.
Reset the hob by turning off the power at the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. If the error returns, there may be a fault in the wiring or one of the electronic boards.
Riber E05: NTC temperature sensor signal out of range (open or short circuit) in Washing Machine.
The NTC (temperature sensor) is providing an incorrect reading or has failed.
Check wiring to the NTC sensor. Test the sensor's resistance with a multimeter. Replace the NTC sensor if out of specification.
Riber E06: Motor drive or inverter rotation anomaly in Washing Machine; drum/motor fails to spin at target RPM.
Motor fault detected by the main control board, often a motor triac failure.
Inspect the main control board for visible damage. Test the motor triac. This may require replacing the entire control board.
A specific zone does not work and shows E6.
A fault with the power relay or sensor for a specific cooking zone has been detected.
This indicates a hardware failure on the power board. The board will likely need to be diagnosed and replaced by a service technician.
Drum turns erratically or spins at high speed then stops.
Fault with the motor tacho generator, which measures the drum's speed.
Check the wiring to the motor and tacho coil. Ensure the tacho magnet is secure on the motor shaft. Check the resistance of the tacho coil. Replace motor if tacho is faulty.
Machine trips the circuit breaker or does not heat water.
The heating element has failed or has an earth leakage fault.
Disconnect the appliance from power. Test the heating element for continuity and for a short to ground. Replace the heating element if faulty.
Ice maker issues, such as not filling or not harvesting ice.
Fault detected with the ice maker's position or hall sensor.
This is an internal fault within the ice maker module. The module typically needs to be reset or replaced.
Machine is taking too long to fill with water.
Low water pressure, blocked inlet hose filter, or faulty pressure switch.
Ensure source water tap is fully open. Clean the inlet hose filter. Check the pressure switch and its hose.
Machine stops with water inside, may show a leak symbol.
Similar to E04, this indicates the anti-flood system in the base has been triggered by a leak.
Unplug the machine, tilt it to drain the base, find and fix the leak (e.g., split hose, bad seal).
Drainage is very slow or has timed out.
Severe blockage in the drain pump or outlet hose, preventing efficient draining.
Perform a thorough cleaning of the pump filter. Remove the drain hose and check for deep blockages. Check that the pump impeller can spin freely.
Cycle does not start, door seems closed but machine doesn't register it.
A generic door lock mechanism failure, covering the switch, solenoid, or wiring.
Check that the door closes firmly. Inspect the door latch and the lock assembly for damage. Test the lock's electrical components and replace if faulty.
A flashing 'F' symbol appears when trying to use an induction zone.
No pan is detected, the pan is not suitable for induction, or the pan is not centered correctly on the zone.
Ensure you are using a pan with a ferrous (magnetic) base. Test with a magnet. Center the pan on the cooking zone markings.
Oven temperature is inaccurate or it overheats.
Oven temperature sensor (NTC) is faulty, likely an open circuit.
Test the resistance of the temperature sensor. It should be around 1080 Ohms at room temperature. Replace the sensor if the reading is infinite or incorrect.
Freezer temperature is not correct, alarm may sound.
The freezer compartment's air temperature sensor (thermistor) has failed.
The sensor is providing an out-of-range reading. It needs to be tested and replaced if faulty.
Oven does not heat at all or shows very low temperature.
Oven temperature sensor (NTC) has a short circuit.
Test the resistance of the temperature sensor. If the reading is close to zero Ohms, the sensor is shorted and must be replaced.
Fridge compartment is too warm or too cold.
The fresh food (refrigerator) compartment's air temperature sensor has failed.
The refrigerator sensor needs to be located, tested for correct resistance, and replaced if necessary.
Oven door will not unlock after pyrolytic cleaning.
The door lock mechanism has failed, or the control board is not sending the signal to unlock.
Allow the oven to cool completely for several hours. Try running a short cooking cycle to reset the logic. If still locked, the lock motor or control board may need replacement.
Excessive frost buildup in the freezer, poor cooling.
The defrost system's temperature sensor (on the evaporator) has failed.
The control board cannot determine when to start or stop the defrost cycle. The defrost sensor needs to be replaced.
Oven is completely dead or has intermittent power.
Failure of the main relay on the power control board.
This error requires inspection and testing of the main electronic control board. The faulty relay or the entire board will need to be replaced by a qualified technician.
Freezer is completely iced up and not cooling.
The defrost heater element has failed, preventing the appliance from melting frost off the evaporator coils.
Manually defrost the appliance. Test the defrost heater for continuity. Replace the heater if it is open-circuit.
Oven shuts down during use, display shows F05.
Overheating detected by the safety thermostat, often due to a failed cooling fan.
Ensure oven ventilation is not blocked. Check if the cooling fan is running when the oven is hot. If not, the fan motor or its thermal switch may need replacement.
Ice maker is not producing ice.
A fault has been detected with the ice maker assembly, motor, or sensors.
Check for ice blockages. Ensure the ice maker is turned on. The entire ice maker assembly may need to be tested and replaced.
Our official certified partners service Riber appliances in your area.