Access our premium database of error codes, common faults, and professional repair solutions for Novomatic appliances.
An alarm is sounding and a warning light is on.
This is a high-temperature alarm for the freezer, not a fault code. It indicates the internal temperature is too high.
Check that the door is fully closed. Avoid opening it for several hours to allow it to cool down, especially after a power outage or loading new groceries. If alarm persists, there may be a cooling system fault.
Dishwasher has stopped and is beeping, may have water in the base tray.
A water leak has been detected in the base of the appliance, triggering the anti-flood protection switch.
Disconnect power and water supply. Carefully tilt the machine to drain the base. Find and repair the source of the leak (e.g., hose, seal, pump).
Dishwasher cycle starts but no water enters the machine.
Water supply issue. The tap may be closed, the inlet hose kinked, or the water inlet solenoid valve has failed.
Ensure the water supply tap is fully open. Check the inlet hose for kinks. Clean the filter in the hose connection. Test and replace the inlet valve if necessary.
Cycle finishes with dirty water left in the bottom of the dishwasher.
The dishwasher has failed to drain the water due to a blockage in the filter, drain pump, or drain hose.
Remove and clean the main filter and microfilter. Check the drain pump impeller for obstructions. Ensure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged.
Dishes remain dirty after a full cycle.
Problem with the main wash motor (circulation pump) or the pressure switch that monitors its operation. The spray arms may also be clogged.
Remove and clean the spray arms, ensuring the jet holes are clear. Inspect the circulation pump for blockages or failure. Check the pressure switch.
Dishes are not drying properly and the cycle finishes with cold water.
The water is not being heated due to a faulty heating element or an issue with its control circuit on the main board.
Test the heating element for electrical continuity. Check the wiring to the heater. The main control board may need replacement if the element is good.
Oven is not heating correctly or shows an inaccurate temperature.
The oven's temperature sensor (NTC probe) is faulty, providing incorrect data to the control board.
Test the sensor with a multimeter for correct resistance at room temperature. If the reading is incorrect, replace the sensor.
Oven is overheating and may display a very high temperature.
The oven has detected a temperature above the maximum limit, usually caused by a stuck heating element relay on the control board.
Disconnect the oven from power immediately. This fault typically requires the replacement of the main power board.
Water does not heat, or wash cycle takes excessively long.
The water temperature sensor (NTC) is faulty, giving an incorrect reading to the control board.
Test the NTC sensor's resistance with a multimeter. Check the wiring to the sensor. Replace the sensor if faulty.
Freezer temperature is incorrect or fluctuating widely.
The freezer compartment's NTC temperature sensor is faulty.
Locate and test the resistance of the freezer sensor. If the reading is open circuit, shorted, or incorrect for the ambient temperature, it needs to be replaced.
Oven controls are unresponsive or the display is erratic.
A communication failure between the main power board and the user interface/display board.
Inspect the wire harness connecting the boards for damage or loose connections. One of the boards may be faulty and need to be replaced.
Oven door remains locked after a self-cleaning cycle.
The motorized door lock mechanism has failed, is jammed, or the control board is not sending the signal to unlock.
Allow the oven to cool completely. Try running a short bake cycle to reset the lock. If it persists, the lock assembly may need to be manually released and replaced.
Heavy frost and ice buildup inside a frost-free freezer.
The automatic defrost system has failed. This is often due to a faulty defrost heater element.
Manually defrost the appliance. Test the defrost heater for continuity. Also check the defrost thermostat and timer/control board. Replace the defective component.
Machine stops mid-cycle, especially during heating.
The heater relay on the control board is stuck, or a pressure switch fault is causing the heater to run when the drum is empty.
This is a serious fault. Check the heating element and its wiring. Inspect the pressure switch. The main control board likely needs replacement.
Appliance is dead, or lights are flashing erratically with no response.
The memory (EEPROM) on the main control board is corrupt or has failed.
Try unplugging the machine for 30 minutes to perform a hard reset. If the error returns, the control board will need to be reprogrammed or replaced.
Machine fails to drain the water.
The main control board cannot detect the drain pump. This indicates an open circuit in the pump's wiring or a failed pump motor.
Check the wiring between the control board and the drain pump. Test the pump's electrical continuity. Replace the drain pump if it has failed.
Machine is unresponsive, display may be blank or flashing all lights.
There is a communication error between the main control board and the front display board.
Check the wiring harness that connects the two boards for any loose or damaged connections. One of the boards may be faulty and require replacement.
The door will not lock, and the cycle refuses to start.
The door interlock mechanism is faulty, or the door is not closing properly to engage the lock.
Ensure the door is closed firmly. Check the door catch and the lock assembly for damage. Test and replace the door lock mechanism if it is defective.