Access our premium database of error codes, common faults, and professional repair solutions for Schaub Lorenz appliances.
Washing machine stops before the final spin, or spins at a low speed.
The machine has detected an unbalanced load. The laundry is clumped together, preventing a safe high-speed spin.
Pause the cycle, open the door, and redistribute the laundry more evenly inside the drum. Restart the spin cycle.
Refrigerator cooling performance is poor or erratic.
Fault with the ambient air temperature sensor. The fridge uses this to adjust cooling based on room temperature.
This sensor is often located on the exterior or top of the appliance. It needs to be tested and replaced by a technician.
Door cannot be locked or machine thinks door is open.
The door lock mechanism is faulty, the wiring to the lock is damaged, or the main control board is not sending the signal to lock.
Check that the door is firmly closed. Inspect the door lock for damage. Test the wiring and the lock mechanism for continuity. Replace the door lock if faulty.
Hob beeps and shuts down shortly after turning on.
The internal electronics are overheating, possibly due to a blocked ventilation fan or installation in a non-ventilated cabinet.
Ensure the ventilation slots under the hob are not blocked. Check that the internal cooling fan is operating. Allow the unit to cool down completely before restarting.
Washing machine is not filling with water or fills very slowly.
The water supply is turned off, the inlet hose is kinked or blocked, the filter in the inlet valve is clogged, or the water inlet valve itself has failed.
Ensure water tap is fully open. Check inlet hose for kinks. Clean the filter screen at the connection point. Test and replace the water inlet valve if necessary.
A cooking zone shuts off during use.
The surface temperature sensor has detected overheating of the ceramic glass, often from an empty pan being left on high heat.
Remove the cookware from the zone and allow the hob surface to cool down. The zone should function again once the temperature is safe.
Water is not draining from the machine, or the pump runs continuously.
The drain pump filter is blocked, the drain hose is blocked or kinked, or the drain pump motor is faulty.
Access and clean the drain pump filter. Check the drain hose for obstructions. Inspect the pump impeller to ensure it spins freely. Replace the pump if it's seized or burned out.
Hob does not operate or shows an error upon startup.
The mains electrical supply voltage is too high for the appliance's operating parameters.
This is an issue with the home's electrical supply. Contact a qualified electrician to check the voltage at the outlet.
Machine has overfilled with water, or the anti-flood system has been activated.
The water inlet valve is stuck open, or the pressure switch has failed and is not correctly reading the water level.
Turn off the water supply immediately. Drain the machine manually. Inspect and test the pressure switch and its connecting tube. Test and replace the water inlet valve.
Freezer is not cooling and has significant frost buildup.
The defrost heater element has failed, preventing the appliance from running its automatic defrost cycle.
Manually defrost the appliance. Test the defrost heater for continuity. If it's open circuit, it must be replaced.
The water is not heating up or overheats.
The NTC temperature sensor is faulty (open or short circuit), its wiring is damaged, or the heating element has failed.
Test the resistance of the NTC sensor (should be around 4700 Ohms at 25°C). Check wiring between the sensor and the main board. Test the heating element for continuity.
The drum is not turning or spinning.
The motor's tacho sensor has failed, the motor brushes are worn out, or there is a fault in the motor wiring or the motor itself.
Inspect and replace worn motor carbon brushes. Check the tacho coil on the motor for continuity. Examine motor connections and wiring harness.
One or more cooking zones are not working.
There is a communication error between a power board and the cooking zone sensor.
Attempt a reset by turning off the hob at the main circuit breaker for 5 minutes. If the error persists, it indicates an internal hardware fault requiring a service technician.
Machine trips the circuit breaker or does not spin.
The motor control triac on the main circuit board is short-circuited, or there's a fault with the motor.
This is a main control board fault. The board will likely need to be replaced. Check motor for short circuits before replacing the board.
The ice maker is not producing ice.
There is a fault with the ice maker mechanism or its sensor.
Ensure the ice maker is turned on and the water line is connected. Check for ice jams. The ice maker assembly may need to be tested and replaced.
Machine stops mid-cycle and shows error, unresponsive buttons.
Communication error between the main control board and the display/user interface board.
Disconnect the appliance from power for 10 minutes to reset. Check the wiring harness connecting the two control boards for loose connections or damage.
Drainage time is too long.
Partial blockage in the drain pump or hose, causing slow draining which exceeds the time limit set in the software.
Thoroughly clean the pump filter and inspect the drain hose for partial obstructions that might be slowing the water flow.
Washing machine will not drain water.
A more specific drain fault indicating a blockage or a difficult drain situation (e.g., pumping uphill too high).
Check and clean the pump filter. Ensure the drain hose is not kinked, blocked, or has an end height exceeding the manufacturer's recommendation (usually under 1 meter).
A flashing 'F' appears on the display for a cooking zone.
No cookware is detected on the zone, the cookware is not suitable for induction, or the pan is not centered correctly.
Place a suitable (ferromagnetic) pan on the center of the cooking zone. If the pan is already there, test it with a magnet; if the magnet doesn't stick strongly, the pan is not compatible.
Oven does not heat or heats uncontrollably.
The oven's temperature sensor (NTC probe) has an open circuit, meaning it's failed or disconnected.
Test the sensor with a multimeter for resistance. Check the wiring connecting the sensor to the control board. Replace the sensor if faulty.
Dishwasher stops and pump runs continuously, water may be in the base.
The anti-flood protection switch in the base of the machine has been activated by a water leak.
Disconnect power. Carefully tilt the dishwasher forward to drain water from the base tray and reset the switch. Find and repair the source of the leak (e.g., hose, seal, pump).
Oven overheats significantly.
The oven's temperature sensor (NTC probe) has a short circuit.
Test the sensor for a short circuit. Replace the sensor if it is shorted.
Dishwasher is not emptying the water at the end of a cycle.
The drain hose is blocked or kinked, the filters are clogged, or the drain pump is faulty.
Check and clean the internal filters. Inspect the drain hose for blockages. Check that the drain pump impeller can turn freely. Replace the drain pump if defective.
Oven door will not lock or unlock, especially for pyrolytic cleaning.
The motorized door lock mechanism has failed or is jammed.
Allow the oven to cool completely. Check the door lock assembly for any obstructions. The lock motor or microswitch may need to be replaced.
Dishwasher keeps filling with water, even when turned off.
The water inlet valve (solenoid) is stuck in the open position.
Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. The inlet valve needs to be replaced.
Oven cuts out during use, especially at high temperatures.
Overheating detected by the safety thermostat, often due to a failed cooling fan.
Check if the cooling fan runs when the oven is on. If it doesn't, inspect the fan motor and wiring. Also check the high-limit thermostat.
Not enough water is entering the dishwasher; cycle may not start.
The water supply tap is closed, the inlet hose is kinked, the filter on the inlet valve is blocked, or water pressure is too low.
Ensure the water tap is fully open. Straighten any kinks in the inlet hose. Clean the small mesh filter where the hose connects to the machine. Check household water pressure.
The dishwasher cycle does not complete or water does not heat.
The NTC temperature sensor is defective (open circuit).
The NTC sensor, which monitors water temperature, needs to be tested and likely replaced.
Dishwasher stops mid-cycle, potentially with steam coming out.
Overheating has been detected. The NTC sensor may be faulty or the main control board has detected an unsafe temperature.
Test or replace the NTC temperature sensor. Check the heating element relay on the control board.
Oven is completely dead or functions are not working correctly.
The main control board has an EEPROM memory/configuration error.
Try a hard reset by disconnecting power for 30 minutes. If the error returns, the main control board needs to be reprogrammed or replaced.
Our official certified partners service Schaub Lorenz appliances in your area.