Access our premium database of error codes, common faults, and professional repair solutions for Atlantic appliances.
Water is dangerously hot, system locked out
Overheating detected by the safety thermostat, likely due to a faulty main thermostat.
Reset the safety cut-out. If the problem reoccurs, the main thermostat needs replacement.
Anti-corrosion system fault
Fault with the ACI (Anti-Corrosion Integrated) electronic anode system.
The ACI system board or anode connection may be faulty. Requires a service technician to diagnose.
Heater stops working, dry fire protection
The system detected that the heating element was energized without being submerged in water.
Ensure the tank is full of water before turning on the power. Reset the unit. Check for leaks that may have drained the tank.
Inaccurate temperature control
Fault detected with the upper temperature sensor (NTC).
The temperature sensor needs to be tested and replaced if it is out of specification.
Oven is completely dead or unresponsive
Failure of the main electronic control board (PCB).
Try resetting the oven at the circuit breaker. If it does not resolve the issue, the main board likely needs replacement.
Atlantic F1: Water/air heating failure in Water Heater / Boiler; heating circuit does not reach set temperature.
Lack of water circulation causing the boiler to overheat. Could be a seized pump or closed valves.
Check system pressure. Ensure radiator valves are open. Try to reset the boiler. If it persists, check the pump.
Atlantic F2: NTC temperature sensor signal out of range (open or short circuit) in Water Heater / Boiler.
Domestic Hot Water (DHW) temperature sensor (NTC) is faulty.
The DHW NTC sensor needs to be tested and likely replaced by a qualified engineer.
Oven overheating or not heating correctly
The oven temperature sensor (NTC) has an open circuit, meaning it's broken or disconnected.
The temperature sensor needs to be checked for continuity and its connections secured. Replace the sensor if faulty.
Atlantic F3: NTC temperature sensor signal out of range (open or short circuit) in Water Heater / Boiler.
Central Heating (CH) temperature sensor (NTC) is faulty.
The central heating NTC sensor needs to be tested and likely replaced by a qualified engineer.
Atlantic F4: Operational cycle fault detected during Water Heater / Boiler program execution.
Multiple ignition attempts have failed. Can be due to gas supply, electrode, or flame sensor issues.
Check gas supply. Ensure the boiler is properly grounded. Clean flame sensor and ignition electrodes.
Door lock mechanism error
Fault with the door locking system, common during or after a pyrolytic cleaning cycle.
Allow the oven to cool completely. Try to reset the oven power. If the lock remains stuck, it may require manual release and service.
Air pressure switch or fan fault
The air pressure switch has not operated correctly, indicating a fan or flue issue.
Check the flue for blockages. Ensure the fan is spinning freely. Check the tubes connected to the pressure switch.
Poor cleaning performance, usually on one rack
Fault with the diverter valve, which alternates water flow between the upper and lower spray arms. The valve may be stuck or its motor has failed.
Inspect the diverter valve assembly at the bottom of the dishwasher sump for blockages or damage. The valve motor may need to be tested and replaced.
No heat from heating element
The heating element relay on the main board has failed.
This requires diagnosis by a technician to confirm the fault on the control board, which will likely need to be replaced.
Oven door will not lock for self-clean cycle, or will not unlock after
There is a fault with the motorized door lock assembly. The mechanism could be jammed, or the motor/switch has failed.
Disconnect power for at least 30 minutes to allow the oven to cool and attempt a reset. If the door remains locked, a manual release may be necessary. The lock assembly likely needs replacement.
Wash motor or circulation pump error
The main circulation pump is blocked by debris or has failed.
Clean filters. Manually check if the circulation pump impeller can be turned. The pump may need to be replaced.
No water entering the appliance
Water inlet valve is closed, hose is kinked, or the inlet valve solenoid has failed.
Check water supply is on and the hose is not bent. If these are fine, the inlet valve may need replacement.
Low water pressure warning
The heating system pressure is below the minimum required level (typically 0.5 bar).
Top up the system pressure using the filling loop until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
Incorrect system water pressure
Pressure is either too low or too high, or the pressure sensor is faulty.
Adjust system pressure to the recommended level. If pressure is correct, the sensor may need replacement.
High temperature alarm, flashing display or beeping
The internal temperature of the refrigerator or freezer is too high. This can be caused by a door left open, a power outage, or a cooling system fault.
Ensure the door is fully closed. Check for obstructions. Wait a few hours for the temperature to stabilize. If it doesn't cool, service is required.
Water left in the bottom of dishwasher after cycle
Drain filter or drain hose is blocked.
Remove and clean the filters in the bottom of the dishwasher. Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages.
Dishwasher has stopped and may be beeping continuously
Anti-flood device has been activated due to a leak in the base of the machine.
Turn off water and power supply. Tilt the machine to drain water from the base. Find and repair the source of the leak.
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