Access our premium database of error codes, common faults, and professional repair solutions for Scholtès appliances.
Dishwasher stops and beeps continuously, may show signs of leaking.
Anti-flood system (Aquastop) has been activated due to a leak in the base of the machine.
Disconnect from power. Tilt the dishwasher to drain water from the base. Find and repair the source of the leak (e.g., hose, seal, pump).
Alarm sounds, temperature warning light is on for the freezer.
Freezer compartment temperature is too high. This could be due to a recent power outage, door left open, or a cooling system fault.
Ensure the door is properly closed. Wait 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize after a power outage. If it persists, check for frost build-up and listen for the compressor running. May indicate a sealed system or sensor fault.
Dishwasher fails to fill with water.
Water inlet timeout. Fault with water supply, inlet valve, or flow meter.
Check if the water tap is on and the inlet hose is not kinked. Clean the hose filter. Test the water inlet valve (solenoid).
Alarm sounds, temperature warning light is on for the refrigerator.
Refrigerator compartment temperature is too high.
Check that the door is sealed correctly and not obstructed. Ensure ventilation slots are not blocked by food items. If the problem continues, there may be an issue with the damper control or a temperature sensor.
Dishwasher fails to drain the water.
Drain timeout. Blockage in the drain system or a faulty drain pump.
Clean filters in the dishwasher tub. Check drain hose for kinks or blockages. Inspect drain pump for debris or failure.
Dishes are not cleaned or dried properly.
Temperature sensor (NTC) fault. The machine cannot regulate the water temperature correctly.
Test the NTC sensor for correct resistance values. Check wiring between the sensor and the main board. Replace the sensor if faulty.
Spray arms are not rotating, poor wash results.
Pressure switch fault or sump blockage. The machine thinks there is no water pressure.
Thoroughly clean all filters and the sump area. Check the pressure switch and its connecting tube for blockages. Test wash motor.
Machine overfills with water or fills when off.
Water inlet valve (solenoid) is stuck open.
Replace the water inlet valve. This part cannot typically be repaired.
Water is not directed to the correct spray arm.
Diverter valve (alternating wash motor) fault.
Inspect the diverter valve for blockages or mechanical failure. Check wiring to the valve. Replace the valve assembly if faulty.
Scholtès A08: Water/air heating failure in Dishwasher; heating circuit does not reach set temperature.
Heating element or thermostat failure. The machine detects temperature is not rising.
Test the heating element for continuity. Check the safety thermostat. Inspect wiring. Replace the faulty component.
Cycle does not complete, machine may trip the circuit breaker.
Heating element circuit fault. Possible short circuit in the element.
Disconnect power. Test the heating element for resistance and for a short to ground. Replace the heating element if faulty.
A cooking zone turns off and beeps.
The temperature of the cooking zone has exceeded its safety limit. The pan may have boiled dry.
Remove the pan from the hob and let the cooking zone cool down. Ensure pans have flat bottoms and contain liquid or fat. If it occurs with a cool pan, the sensor may be faulty.
Oven not heating correctly or showing incorrect temperature.
Temperature sensor (NTC/probe) is disconnected or has an open circuit.
Check the connection of the temperature sensor at the control board and at the sensor itself. Test sensor resistance; replace if out of range or open.
Inaccurate freezer temperature or excessive cooling.
Freezer compartment NTC temperature sensor is faulty (open circuit).
Test the freezer NTC sensor for correct resistance. Check the wiring back to the control board. Replace the sensor if it tests open.
Oven overheats or temperature reading is wildly inaccurate.
Temperature sensor (NTC/probe) has short-circuited.
Test the resistance of the temperature sensor. If it shows zero or very low resistance, it has shorted and must be replaced.
Incorrect fridge temperature, potential freezing of food.
Refrigerator compartment NTC temperature sensor is faulty (open circuit).
Test the refrigerator NTC sensor for correct resistance. Check the wiring. Replace the sensor if it is faulty.
Hob is unresponsive, may show flashing lights.
Communication error between the user interface board and the power module.
Disconnect power for 10 minutes to reset. If the error returns, check the wiring harness between the boards. One of the boards may be faulty.
Erratic temperature control in both compartments.
Combined NTC sensor fault, often indicating a short circuit.
Locate and test the relevant temperature sensor. A shorted sensor will show very low resistance and must be replaced.
Oven fails to heat on one or all functions.
Heating element failure or relay on the control board has failed.
Test the heating elements for continuity. If elements are good, the power relay on the main control board has likely failed, requiring board replacement.
Cooking zone shuts down during use.
Overheating detected at the power module. Could be a faulty cooling fan or blocked ventilation.
Ensure the ventilation underneath the hob is not obstructed. Check if the internal cooling fan is operating. The NTC sensor on the power board may also be faulty.
Hob shuts down or won't turn on.
Mains voltage is too high. A power surge may have occurred.
Check the household electrical supply. If the voltage is normal, the detection circuit on the hob's power board is faulty.
Oven shuts down during use, especially at high temperatures.
Overheating detected by the safety thermostat, or a faulty cooling fan.
Check if the cooling fan is running. Ensure oven ventilation is not blocked. Test the safety thermostat; it should have continuity when cold.
No defrost cycle, excessive ice build-up on the evaporator.
Evaporator NTC sensor fault (open circuit). The appliance cannot determine when to start or stop the defrost cycle.
The evaporator sensor needs to be tested and likely replaced. This often requires removing internal panels to access the evaporator.
Machine stops, water not heating, potential overfill.
Heater relay stuck or pressure switch issue. Control board detects heater element is on when it shouldn't be.
This is a critical fault. Unplug the machine. Check pressure switch and heater. The main PCB is likely faulty and needs replacement.
Defrost heater remains on, appliance may feel warm.
Evaporator NTC sensor fault (short circuit).
Test the evaporator sensor for a short circuit. Replace the sensor to resolve the issue.
Appliance is dead or unresponsive, flashing lights.
Setup error or EEPROM corruption on the main control board.
The control board needs to be reprogrammed or replaced by a qualified technician.
Oven is completely dead, no power.
Main thermal cut-out (TCO) or safety thermostat has tripped and is open circuit.
Locate and test the main safety thermostat for continuity. If it's open circuit, it needs to be replaced. Investigate the cause of overheating (e.g., faulty cooling fan).
Washing cycle does not start, humming noise.
Wash motor (circulation pump) is faulty or seized.
Check the wash motor capacitor. Check for obstructions in the pump impeller. If clear, the motor likely needs replacement.
No response from controls, lights may flash.
Communication error between the main control board and the display board.
Check the wiring harness connecting the two boards for loose connections or damage. Replace the faulty board or wiring.
Machine stops mid-cycle, usually after filling.
Virtual sensor error. The control board is not receiving correct data about water presence or turbidity.
Clean filters and sump thoroughly. Check for excessive foaming from incorrect detergent. If problem persists, it may be a control board issue.
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