Access our premium database of error codes, common faults, and professional repair solutions for Bompani appliances.
Door will not lock or machine will not start.
Faulty door lock mechanism, wiring issue, or a problem with the main control board.
Check that the door is closed properly. Inspect the door lock and its wiring. Replace the door lock assembly if it's defective.
Dishwasher will not start and may be beeping; anti-flood system activated.
A leak has been detected in the base of the machine, which has activated the float switch (Aquastop system).
Unplug the appliance and check the base pan for water. Find and repair the source of the leak (e.g., loose hose, cracked tub, faulty seal). Dry the base and reset the float switch.
Washing machine is not filling with water or filling very slowly.
Low water pressure, kinked inlet hose, blocked filter in the hose or water inlet valve, or a faulty water inlet valve (solenoid).
Ensure the water tap is fully open. Check the inlet hose for kinks and clean the filter screens at both ends. Test and replace the inlet valve if necessary.
Water is not draining from the drum at the end of a cycle.
The drain filter or drain pump is blocked with debris, the drain hose is kinked or blocked, or the drain pump has failed.
Turn off the machine. Carefully drain any remaining water and clean the drain pump filter. Check the drain hose for obstructions. Inspect the pump impeller to ensure it can turn freely.
Water is not heating up, resulting in poor wash performance and wet dishes.
The heating element has failed, the NTC temperature sensor is faulty, or there's a problem with the wiring or control board relay for the heater.
Test the heating element for continuity. Check the NTC sensor's resistance. Inspect wiring. If components are good, the control board may be the issue.
Machine overfills with water or stops with water inside.
The pressure switch, which detects the water level, is faulty, or the tube connected to it is blocked or has come loose. Can also be triggered by excessive foaming from too much detergent.
Check the pressure switch and its connecting hose for blockages or damage. Reduce the amount of detergent used. Replace the pressure switch if it is faulty.
Dishwasher is overfilling with water.
The pressure switch is not correctly sensing the water level, or the water inlet valve is stuck open.
Check the pressure switch and its associated hose for blockages. Test the water inlet valve to ensure it closes properly when power is removed.
The machine is not heating the water.
The NTC (temperature sensor) is faulty, providing incorrect readings to the control board, or the wiring to the sensor is broken.
Test the resistance of the NTC sensor with a multimeter. If the reading is incorrect (usually should be around 5-6 kOhms at room temp), replace the sensor.
Dirty water remains in the bottom of the dishwasher after a cycle.
The filters are clogged, the drain hose is blocked or kinked, or the drain pump is faulty or obstructed.
Remove and thoroughly clean all filters in the bottom of the dishwasher. Check the drain hose's entire length for kinks or blockages. Inspect the drain pump impeller for debris.
The drum does not spin or spins erratically/violently.
A fault with the motor's speed sensor (tacho), worn out motor carbon brushes, or a loose connection to the motor.
Check the motor's carbon brushes for wear (if applicable). Check the tacho coil and its connection on the motor. Inspect all motor wiring.
Freezer is not cooling properly or is icing up.
The freezer temperature sensor (thermistor) has failed, sending incorrect information to the control board.
Locate the sensor in the freezer compartment, test its resistance with a multimeter, and replace it if the reading is out of specification.
The fresh food (refrigerator) section is too warm or too cold.
The refrigerator temperature sensor (thermistor) has failed.
Locate the sensor in the fresh food compartment, test its resistance, and replace it if faulty.
Excessive frost or ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer or on the evaporator coils.
The defrost sensor (bimetal thermostat or thermistor) has failed, preventing the defrost cycle from running correctly.
Manually defrost the unit. Locate the defrost sensor on the evaporator coils and test it for continuity (if bimetal) or resistance (if thermistor). Replace if faulty.
Refrigerator is not cooling well and the evaporator coils in the freezer are completely covered in ice.
The defrost heater has burned out and is no longer melting the frost during the defrost cycle.
After a manual defrost, test the defrost heater element for continuity using a multimeter. If there is no continuity, the heater must be replaced.
Oven is unresponsive or displays a general failure code.
A generic electronic fault has been detected by the main control board (PCB).
Perform a hard reset by turning off the oven at the circuit breaker for 5-10 minutes, then restoring power. If the error code returns, the main control board is likely faulty and requires replacement.
Freezer is warm but the compressor is running. You may not hear air circulating.
The evaporator fan motor has failed or is blocked by ice.
Check if the fan blade is obstructed by ice buildup. If clear, test the fan motor to see if it receives voltage. If voltage is present but the fan doesn't run, the motor needs replacement.
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